Foundation Repair Ross
Ross structural foundation repair problems in your house, garage, or commercial building can cause one or more of the following observable symptoms or conditions: (Actual example of a Ross foundation repair job is detailed below.)
- floors out of level
- cracks in walls (especially above doors and windows)
- sticking doors
- sticky windows
- cracks in concrete walls
- cracks in brick walls
- crack or cracks in perimeter foundations
- cracks in driveways
Foundation Repair Causes in Ross
Structural foundation problems typically found in Ross by foundation repair specialists can be caused by one or more of the following conditions for which repairs may be called for by your architect, engineer, or general contractor:
- Poor drainage problem (wet soaked soil, mud, muddy under house)
- Bad smell in basement or crawlspace caused by mold or mildew
- poor grading
- deficient underpinning or underpinning needs replacment
- earthquake or earthquakes
- land movement or landslide
- failed retaining wall problem
- expansive soil like the clay soil found in the bay area (that expands and contracts with soaking and drying)
- rotting beams
- rotted posts
- wet crawl spaces, where soil is soaked under the home
If you find any of the above on your property, you need a qualified foundation repair contractor or structural engineer to inspect, and give you a professional estimate, so you can discover the best way to repair or fix the problem at the lowest cost. For your inspections, be sure and choose a foundation repair construction companies, engineering firms, or specialist expert inspectors that specialize in foundation repair work, and can provide the necessary permit or permits. We are a Bluebook listed foundation repair construction company you can rely on.
Heres an example of a foundation repair job we did in Ross :
Per the plans, we will construct a new 20 feet long interior concrete footing, 6 new isolated concrete pad type footings, and 8 feet of new slab on grade footing at the left side bump out.
We will lift the entire front and left sides of the residence, as well as a portion of the right and rear as much as we can to bring the home to near the elevation at the fireplace. Front or side porch demolition will be done on a time and materials basis. We will demolish the top band that surrounds the porch roof support columns, detach the posts, and lift the porch roof off of the columns as necessary. No re-attachment is included.
We will record the differential elevations of your home on a rough plan before leveling and after leveling so you have a record of what was done.
Your home will be leveled from its existing foundation and no additional foundation work is included in this recommendation. As the house is raised, a crack will appear between the top of the foundation and the framing. We will grout this crack as necessary, with a high strength non-shrink grout, to support the house but it will be visible and will need additional cosmetic work later which is not included in our estimate.
We will extend the foundation bolts as necessary to provide anchorage. If the foundation bolts are missing or for some reason cannot be extended, we will secure the frame to the foundation with another method suited to the particular construction of the building.
We will replace all the wood underpinning posts located in the sub-area of the home with adjustable steel jacks, and adjust the interior floors as much as we can.
We will construct a drainage system along a 16 feet long portion of the left, and the entire rear and right sides of the residence. We will continue the system along the two sides of the basement that re adjacent to the sub-area as well.
The drainage system consists of two pipes in a rock filled trench. One is perforated, to collect sub-surface water and the other is non-perforated, to collect water from the roof downspouts. At the upper end or start of the perforated pipe, a clean-out will be provided so the pipe can be tested or cleaned as necessary.
The minimum depth for the perforated pipe will be below the grade of the soil under the house and both the perforated and non-perforated pipe will fall at least 1/8 inch per foot for the total length of the system to the point of discharge.
The perforated pipe will be installed on top of a bed of gravel, two inches deep, with the perforations pointed down. The trench will then be then backfilled with drain rock. The rock we recommend is Class I, Permeable Type A drain rock per the California State Specifications. The drain rock is clean gravel that varies in size from 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
The trench will be a minimum of 12 inches wide. This permits a four inch blanket of rock on each side of the four inch perforated pipe.
We will waterproof the foundation walls adjacent to the trench with two coats of asphalt emulsion and fiberglass mesh.
The system will be collected into a sump from where the water will be pumped to the street.
The pump we will use is a high quality 1/3 H.P. 115 volt submersible with a 1 1/4 inch discharge. The performance rating is 42 GPM at a head of 10 feet.
A check valve will be installed in the discharge line to keep water from running back into the sump when the pump turns off. The pump does not pump the sump dry and there will usually be water standing in the bottom.
The installation will be made so that it will be as easy as possible to service or replace the pump when this becomes necessary. Electrical outlet by others.
You should check the sump several times each season to make sure the pump is functioning and that the sump is free of debris. If the system is designed so roof or other surface water flows into the sump, it will be up to you to install screens on the roof downspouts and surface drains to prevent as much debris as possible from flowing through the lines and into the sump.
We will install a cover over the sump, above the ground surface.
We will provide you with the manufacturer’s limited one-year warranty. You will be charged for all service calls we make to clean, change or test the pump. It will be important for you to keep the sump as clean as possible to prevent the pump from becoming clogged.
We will cut the sidewalk, install a drain pipe under the sidewalk and through the curb to discharge into the gutter, and repair the concrete.
We will install a 12 inch catch basin with a cast-iron grate in the low area of the driveway in front of the garage, and connect it to the system. We will connect the downspouts located along the front side of the residence and run them either directly to the street, or connect them to the system.
We will remove and not replace a strip of the flagstone / concrete patio and 2 sets of steps. included.
Whatever foundation repair or structural problem in Ross, call Ward Construction for a professional estimate from the experts.
